That’s how our nearly 2 days in Zermatt were
Why Zermatt?
A long time ago I put to visit Zermatt and the Matterhorn on my bucket list. I write down everything I want to have experienced. For me personally, these are activities, places, special restaurants or hotels. I’m sure you also keep such a list for yourself (more or less active). Leave a comment about what is on your list. Takes me by surprise. 😉
Since we were on a road trip through Switzerland for about 3 weeks in May/June, it was more than appropriate to pay Zermatt a visit in that period. When is there a better opportunity to see the Matterhorn without all the tourists that normally come in masses? I don’t think so soon again.
Where we spent the night in Zermatt
For a long time I tried to get a room for one night at the Backstage Hotel Vernissage. In any case, I only wanted to go to Zermatt, if the weather was nice so that we could do the 5-lakes hike. As I`m absolutely not a fan of crossing a snowfield on foot, only late spring up to end of autumn was an option for us. Of course, the hotel was always fully booked with good weather forecasts.
When we were on a road trip through Switzerland at the beginning of June (we were in Interlaken by that time), I took a look at the booking page again without being really optimistic. And lo and behold, there were rooms available! Even the one with a view of the Matterhorn, which I had wanted to book for a long time! We were on the road with our camper van and therefore very flexible. Without having second toughts, we took the chance. Already for the next night I booked the room. 🙂
At the moment (last status 28.6.2020) there`s a 10% discount on every booking you make directly with the hotel (by phone, mail or online on their homepage itself).
The Matterhorn!
It’s funny about the Matterhorn. So many tourists come to Switzerland specially for this reason, but not exactly few Swiss inhabitants know it only from pictures. Many think that it`s completely overrated and just a tourist trap anyway. Until I saw some great pictures of it, this was also (roughly) my opinion. I thought to myself, what does everybody have with this mountain? It can’t be sooo special.
I was definitely taught a better lesson. When I finally saw the Matterhorn for the first time, I was speechless and overwhelmed by the presence of this giant! There it was, in reality and not just on a photo – The Toblerone mountain. Wow! I now clearly understand the fascination it has for many.
The following photo is the first one (of many ;-)) I took. It was taken on the way from Zermatt to the Sunnegga station.
Also these two photos were taken before the 5-lake hike.
The famous 5-lake hike
We were extremely lucky that the weather was fine that day. As the track was not open yet, I rented an e-bike at the Bike Arena. I was served very nicely by Lisa. Everything went smoothly and I even got some tips for good restaurants in Zermatt from her. many thank for that. 🙂 If you also want to rent an e-bike, you`re definitely well advised with this address.
The gravel road was well passable. From the centre of Zermatt up to the mountain station Sunnegga, it took approximately one hour. There we locked the bikes and made the 5-lake round hike on foot. The whole hiking tour would take approximately 2,5 hours. So that we did not get into the rain, we shortened a little. A good decision, because the weather got worse and worse.
Lake Lei
Immediately after the station Sunnegga you`re at the Leisee. The Matterhorn is very nicely reflected in the water here.
Lake Moje
On the way we had a nice view of the Moje lake. This is a reservoir, which is almost unreal intensive light blue (I didn`t edit the blue on the photos). Depending on the sunshine it`s rather light blue or a little bit greenish. We also didn`t walk down to the Grünsee. There was no time for that since we only left at 1pm and had to bring the bike back in time before closing time.
Lake Grindji
Shortly afterwards we passed lake Grindji.More a pond than a lake, it is embedded between larches, the Grindji creek and the two waterfalls. Mountain meadows with various rare alpine flowers make the surroundings even more special. To me this environment had an unreal and enchanted atmosphere. It was really extremely idyllic here!
Waterfalls
After Lake Grindji we walked towards the waterfalls. This part is not part of the 5-lake hike. Somehow we had taken a wrong turn. I liked the high moor, the beautiful flora and the creek very much. Unfortunately the weather was getting worse and worse, so we skipped the last lake (Lake Stelli) completely and started our way back.
Normally this hike would be a circular walk. But this only works if you can use the cable cars. Due to the fact that they only opened a few days after our visit, we had no other choice than to walk back the same way. But this didn`t bother us, as the view on both sides is gorgeous.
Even one hour before closing time we brought back the e-bike back.
Here are a few more photos I took on the 5-lake hike:
Backstage Hotel Vernissage in Zermatt
Afterwards we could go to our hotel room.
The first thing you notice, apart from the exterior of the hotel, is the creative entrance. Has anyone ever seen a door handle as cool as this one? I certainly haven’t. How did Mister Julen get the idea to use a jug as a door handle? 🙂 It was exactly these details that I liked so much about this hotel!
Unfortunately we had nothing more of the Matterhorn view at that time. Unfortunately, it was almost completely hidden behind a sea of clouds at that time.
We could only just see where it would have been. But the terrace definitely has a great view! The room (as well as the rest of the hotel) was designed very cool!
With every detail you can see that the famous designer Heinz Julen from Valais has given a lot of thought to his work. To stand out at any price is the motto here. It can often backfire, but everything is just right here! Provided that you like this style. A mixture of industrial style and baroque. I, for one, was totally enthusiastic about the interior! I was particularly taken with the chairs in the restaurant. Here this daring mix of styles was staged absolutely brilliantly.
Of course I didn`t miss the opportunity to lie down in the huge tub before breakfast. 🙂
Dinner at Restaurant Julen
During the summer months the restaurant After Seven by Ivo Adam and Florian Neubauer is unfortunately not open.
Therefore we ate at Restaurant Julen. This was one of the only open restaurants. Generally, Zermatt was almost deserted. But many of the restaurants will probably be open again in the meantime.
The dinner in the restaurant Julen was super. The menu contains some very exciting creations. As for example the starter that I have chosen. It was a small corn pie with chicken and lemongrass. Also the fondue was very tasty and the service was extremely attentive.
The restaurant is located in the centre of Zermatt.
Riedstrasse 2, 3920 Zermatt. Tel.: +41 27 966 76 00, Email: tradition@julen.ch
Open from Mon – Sun 12:00 – 14:00, und 18:00 – 23:00.
After dinner we visit the bar of the Backstage Hotel. Here`s also a club and a cinema (they even host cine dinners)!
Cozy strolling around Zermatt itself
After the tasty breakfast (you have to try the pâté) the next morning, we asked at the reception if we`re really allowed to use the wellness area after checking out (this was answered in this way during the booking at the phone). Yes definitely. But they don’t open the wellness area until 3pm. Due to the bad weather and the high demand the entrance is exceptionally possible already from 2pm. An extraordinarily good service I must say!
In order to “kill” the time until then, we strolled around a bit despite the rain.
I was very surprised by the charm that Zermatt has. I imagined the city quite differently. One finds many beautiful old wooden houses here. I find the construction of these houses very interesting. They were built on stilts. Between these stilts and the houses themselves, flat pieces of stone were constructed. This made a lot of sense at the time when they used the houses as granaries.Between these stilts and the houses themselves, flat pieces of stone, so-called mouse plates, were built. This made a lot of sense at the time when they used the houses as granaries. So they could protect themselves from the intrusion of mice and rats. These stone plates are very typical for the construction of the wooden houses in Valais.
We also found charming, and lovingly arranged gardens everywhere. Something I love so much about the seasons spring and summer!
The police “cars” they have here in Zermatt made me smile. Something a little different from usual.
The wellness area of the Backstage Hotel Vernissage
The Spa Genesis wellness area is simply top! It has 7 cubes, each with a different theme. All are dedicated to the creation of the world. Day 1 (light): steam bath, day 2 (sky): pearl bath, day 3 (plants): inhalation, day 4 (cosmos): sauna, day 5 (animals) :floating, day 6 (human): water peeling, day 7 (rest): waterbed.
We liked day 5 the most, where you lie weightlessly in the salt water and are exposed to the sounds of various animals.
In addition to the cubes, there are also 2 rest areas (one with heated loungers), a cold pool, a whirlpool and an outdoor bar. Massages can be booked for a fee.
I find it extremely generous that you`re allowed to use the spa area, even after checking out. That`s all year round (also in the high season weeks) until the end (at 21:00).
My conclusion on Zermatt
Very different from what I imagined. Maybe this had to do with the fact that there really weren’t many people on the road because of the Corona situation. In any case I imagined it somehow snobbier. The 5-lake hike is of course an absolute highlight and must do! It offers a spectacular view of the Matterhorn and the surrounding area. But from several conversations I learned that this hiking tour (specially during the holiday time) is like a march of nations and that partly, one does not even see the hiking path anymore. We met about eight people during the whole hike, which was absolute luxury. Of course we were aware of this and enjoyed it even more. If you somehow have the possibility to do this hike soon, I would highly recommend it 😉
I would book the Backstage Hotel again and again. I really liked it very much. It`s also located very well!
Info:
- Zermatt is car-free. But one can park the car at some garages in Täsch.
- We parked outside of the first garage (on the left side of the road). You could also camp there as well. In the price of 20.- for one day water and electricity would have been included. So if you`re on a low budget, you can stay there for a cheap price. Since we had a hotel booking and therefore didn’t need water and electricity, we were even charged only 15.-. Really fair!
- From Täsch, there`s a public train to Zermatt approximately every 20 minutes. One ticket per trip (for an adult without a half-fare card) costs 8 .- (as of June 2020). You can find the exact departure times on the SBB homepage.
- The train ride from Täsch to Zermatt takes between 12 and 15 minutes.
- The station in Zermatt is right in the centre. So everything is easy. 😉
- The hotels (in any case the Backstage Hotel Vernissage) offer free shuttles to and from the train station. From the train station to the Backstage Hotel Vernissage it takes only 4 minutes on foot.
- The Backstage Hotel also offers Mountain Cottages. These are located above Zermatt in Findeln. The minimum stay here is 4 nights. The chalets have no direct connection to the hotel. It`s like renting a holiday apartment. One does not have breakfast in the hotel Backstage Vernissage but in the restaurant Chez Vrony. You also can`t use the wellness area of the hotel. But on the day of arrival, one is brought from the hotel to the station Sunnegga (back by train). you`re looking for absolute quietness, this is the right place for you!
- As a small souvenir for those who stayed at home I find the Matterhörnli from the Bakery Fuchs perfect. This is chocolate that has been formed in the shape of a small Matterhorn. You can even get it as a cute one-pack in a lovely mini cardboard box. There are 3 such shops in Zermatt.
